During the 2020 lockdown, my staff and I decided to create something that would help relieve the boredom, give our customers a few useful ideas and provide us all with some much-needed laughter.
After more than 20 years in retail, it is extraordinary how often goldsmiths hear the same jewellery problems. Rings no longer fit, chains are too short, clasps become difficult to open and inherited jewellery remains hidden away because it does not suit the person who now owns it.
One of my favourite mantras is:
“No problems, only solutions.”
Naturally, I couldn’t resist compiling a list of solutions.
These are not the only possible answers to each problem—they are simply some of the ways I might solve them. As with most things in life, there is more than one way to skin a goldsmith.
Or was it a cat?
No one appears to know why a cat was chosen for that famous expression. Poor cat, I hear you say… but what about the poor goldsmith?
I believe problems should be viewed as gifts. Solving them is one of the best ways to learn, develop your skills and move forward. Here are 27 common jewellery problems and the solutions I can offer from my workshop.
The ring can be carefully taken apart so that its gemstones can be used in an entirely new design. Depending on the metal and the proposed piece, it may also be possible to melt and reuse the original gold or platinum.
The result is jewellery that feels like your own while preserving the materials and memories inherited from your mother. The best place to begin is with a consultation so we can explore your options together.
The three gemstones could be removed and used to create an individual piece of jewellery for each grandchild.
They might become three pendants, three rings or three completely different pieces chosen to suit each person. This allows the original ring—and the story attached to it—to be shared fairly between them.
Yes. Because jewellery repairs are undertaken in my own Hartlepool workshop, I can examine the clasp and advise whether it can be adjusted immediately or needs to be replaced.
A loose or unreliable clasp should always be checked before travelling. It is a small problem that could otherwise lead to the loss of the entire necklace.
Most white-gold jewellery is rhodium plated to give it a bright, crisp white finish. As the ring is worn, this plating gradually becomes scratched or wears away, revealing the warmer natural colour of the white gold beneath it.
The ring can usually be professionally polished and rhodium plated again, restoring its bright appearance.
Depending on the construction of the earrings, it may be possible to reduce the thickness of the posts carefully. Alternatively, I may be able to remove them and fit a different style of earring fitting that is more comfortable for you.
Even inexpensive earrings can be worth adapting if you enjoy wearing them.
Depending on the bracelet, I may be able to fit a magnetic clasp or replace the existing fitting with a larger clasp that is easier to operate.
There is no single solution for every bracelet, so I would need to examine it before recommending the safest and most practical option.
Clasp springs are not generally universal components. Their dimensions and construction differ between manufacturers, making it difficult to find a replacement that fits correctly.
Even with a larger clasp, the time required to dismantle it, replace the spring and reconstruct it can cost more than fitting a complete new clasp. Replacement is therefore usually the more reliable and economical solution.
The bracelet may have stretched, or its links may have worn thinner through years of use.
I can inspect the links, clasp and connecting rings to determine whether the bracelet is still safe. It may be possible to remove a section to improve the fit, but any underlying wear should be addressed at the same time.
Everyone’s ears are different. The earrings may need longer posts, a different style of back or an alternative fitting altogether.
I can examine their construction and suggest a solution that makes them more comfortable and secure.
Most wedding rings can be professionally cleaned and polished to remove or soften surface scratches and restore their finish.
If you have a particular anniversary or celebration approaching, let me know the date, and I can advise whether the work can be completed in time.
A chain extender can often be added to the back of the necklace.
The additional section may not always be an exact match for the original chain, especially if the necklace is old or has an unusual link. However, when fitted thoughtfully, it can allow you to wear a sentimental necklace comfortably again.
Most rings can be professionally cleaned and polished to restore their appearance.
This removes the dirt and residue that ordinary cleaning cannot reach while improving the surface finish of the metal. The settings should also be inspected before polishing to make sure the gemstones are secure.
I can examine your jewellery and provide an initial professional opinion about whether a formal written valuation is appropriate.
The cost of replacing a handmade, unusual or gemstone-set piece may be considerably higher than expected, so valuable jewellery must be adequately insured.
I can examine the ring and offer my professional opinion about its materials, gemstones, construction and likely significance.
Its monetary value and sentimental value are two different things—but both can influence what you decide to do with it.
Many metal watch bracelets can be professionally cleaned and polished, although care must be taken with plated, coated or contrasting sections.
I will examine the watch first and explain what level of restoration is safely achievable before undertaking the work.
I can test the metal to gain an initial indication of whether it is gold and what purity it may be.
If appropriate, the item can also be submitted to a UK Assay Office for independent testing and hallmarking. This provides formal confirmation that the metal meets the required legal standard.
There are many sensitive possibilities.
His ring might be adapted, incorporated into another design or melted and transformed into a ring that fits your finger. It could also become part of a pendant or another piece that retains recognisable elements of the original.
There is no correct answer here. The right solution is the one that preserves the connection in a way that feels comfortable and meaningful to you.
Yellow gold can be rhodium plated to make it appear bright white, although I generally recommend this only for pieces worn occasionally. As the plating wears, the yellow colour will begin to show through, and the jewellery will require replating.
Other options include trading in the unwanted jewellery, remodelling it or combining the original gold with white metal in a bespoke design.
A larger or more supportive earring back may hold the earrings in a better position. In some cases, I can make custom fittings to distribute the weight more effectively and reduce the forward tilt.
The best solution depends on the size, weight and construction of the earrings.
If the ring is still sufficiently thick, it may be possible to restore or re-engrave the pattern.
If it has become too thin or worn, another option is to reuse the original metal and remake the ring with a completely new pattern. This provides an opportunity to retain its sentimental material while restoring its strength.
A raised claw, worn setting or tiny crack may be almost impossible to see with the naked eye.
Under a microscope, I can examine the setting closely and identify very small areas of damage. The ring may need a minor repair, or a worn section might need rebuilding to make it thicker, smoother and safer.
If a ring suddenly begins catching on clothing, have it checked before continuing to wear it. It may be warning you that a gemstone is no longer secure.
There may be several alternatives.
I can source different gemstones and show you suitable options at varying prices. The replacement does not necessarily have to be an emerald, provided the chosen stone is appropriate for the setting and the way the ring will be worn.
You can consider the possibilities and prices without any obligation to proceed.
Yes, but you should be aware that metals of different hardnesses can wear against one another. Over time, the harder-wearing ring may gradually damage the softer one.
For occasional wear, this may not be a significant concern. For rings worn together every day, matching the gold purity is generally preferable. The damage happens gradually—often over several years—but the rings should still be inspected periodically.
I developed a collection of wedding rings finished with traditional goldsmithing hammers for precisely this reason.
The textured surface means that the inevitable marks of daily life can blend into the design instead of spoiling a perfectly polished finish. Future knocks and scratches become part of the ring’s evolving character.
However, no ring is completely immune to damage, and anyone working with machinery should follow the relevant workplace safety guidance about wearing jewellery.
I hand-make shaped-to-fit wedding rings for exactly this problem.
A sample can first be created in silver, allowing you to see how the shape sits beside your engagement ring before committing to the final precious-metal version. This gives us the freedom to develop a wedding band that complements the engagement ring instead of leaving an awkward gap.
An appointment is the best way to begin discussing the design.
If the rings cannot be safely removed, I can cut them off in my workshop. I do not charge for removing a ring in this situation.
Once your finger has recovered and returned to its normal size, the rings can be assessed and, where possible, repaired and resized correctly.
If your finger is badly swollen, painful, numb or changing colour, treat it as an urgent medical issue rather than waiting for a routine jewellery appointment.
I have framed many unusual and deeply personal objects in gold or silver, transforming them into pendants and other wearable keepsakes.
Family or pet ashes can also be incorporated into specially designed memorial jewellery, including rings and pendants. Because every object and story is different, a personal appointment is the best way to discuss what is possible.
Jewellery is often put away because it is broken, uncomfortable, outdated or no longer suits the person who owns it. That does not necessarily mean its story has ended.
A ring can be remodelled. A necklace can be lengthened. An inherited gemstone can become part of a new design. A wedding ring can be reshaped into something that allows its memories to remain close.
After more than four decades as a goldsmith, I have learned that even the most unusual jewellery problems usually have more than one possible solution.
If you have a jewellery problem that is not included among these 27, contact Mark Lloyd Master Goldsmith or book an appointment at my Hartlepool workshop. Bring the piece with you, tell me its story and let us see what can be done.
